Wednesday, February 6, 2013

In Memory: Natalie Loader


Natalie: 1969 during flight attendant training.

I grew up in suburban Sacramento. We lived in a stucco, tract home with a kidney-shaped swimming pool in the backyard. We had a standard-sized poodle, and a yard decoratively sprinkled with white oleanders. For most of my childhood, there was a Japanese-made fuel-efficient bright orange station wagon parked in our drive-way, and we spent weekends waterskiing on the Sacramento River located a few blocks from my house.
Initially, I assumed everyone lived this way, but my favorite aunt lived in San Francisco, and outside of my parents and my brother, she has been the greatest influence on my life - she taught me about a different world. Her name was Natalie, pronounced by those who loved her best as, “Nat-lee," and though growing up she was called “Pumpkin” by her parents, due to her large cheeks and sweet pumpkin-shaped face, I usually just called her, “Nat.”
In the seventies and eighties, she was a Spanish-speaking flight attendant who travelled between San Francisco and Mexico. She wore Ralph Lauren pants suits, wedge heels, and Cartier rings gifted by handsome pilot boyfriends. She spent her weekends on dates at the opera or the symphony, and used her airline pass to fly away for the weekend to places like Cabo San Lucas, or Belgium. She brought me back a small ceramic owl from South America, a painting of a sad harlequin from Montmatre,  and once - during the Reagan era Cold War - she traveled to Russia with my grandparents and brought back wooden nesting dolls before anyone had really seen or heard of them.
As I grew older, she told me about her many adventures – shopping at Harrods, bullfights in Spain, and drives through the Italian Riviera. She made these faraway places seem completely within my reach and tangible. She wore a Krugerrand ring from South Africa, scarves from Hermès, and a miniature Swiss credit card charm on a long gold chain around her neck. She had regular manicures in colors like “café” or “mocha,” and she smelled of delicious French perfume. Whenever I saw her, and despite my own age and complete lack of knowledge about men, she told me stories about her first love, relayed tales of handsome Italian men in Rome and Florence, and never seemed to get over that old boyfriend who was “as close as you could get to a DuPont.”  
True – she lived in a bit of a fantasy world. She was actually from a first-generation working-class American family in Woodland, California. My grandfather was a milkman and my grandmother was a housewife, and they were thrifty, practical people. They owned property in Alta and Quincy in the Sierra foothills, and though they always gave their children checks at Christmas, they were never lavish, and they didn’t like any fuss – they had simple (e.g. cheap) vacations as they grew older, and they paid off their house well before they retired. In turn, my aunt went to junior college in Sacramento, flight attendant school in Nevada and, though she was attractive, she was definitely nothing close to a DuPont.
My father was her older brother and we all used to say the two of them looked a lot alike – fair and tall and lanky - only my aunt didn’t have the mustache. They got along well, and my aunt looked up to my dad and romanticized him, sort of like she did with everyone she loved. My father, on the other hand, was a tad more cynical – he saw Nat as a funny pest. Nat and my father also had an older sister, Cindy – petite with dark curly haired, Cindy was more serious, and she often looked on Natalie as someone who lived in a fantasy land - someone who got everything she ever wanted, which she did to a degree. Later, Nat was the sister who introduced my father to the college friend who would eventually become my dad’s wife and my mother, so in many ways, I wouldn’t be here if it weren’t for my Aunt Natalie.
When I was seven, my parents began flying my brother and me to San Francisco from Sacramento and my aunt would pick us up at the airport. She worked for Hughes Air West at the time – the airline owned by Howard Hughes. Once off the plane (a whole 15 minute flight!), Natalie would take my brother and me through the terminal to one of the other planes and we’d do a quick raid of their supplies, pocketing a few plastic pilots’ “wings” and packets of hot chocolate and salted peanuts. During the drive into the City, as the skyline came into view, I would sit in the back seat of her Navy blue Volkswagen Beetle and snack away, dreaming of my own future life in San Francisco.  
During our weekend visits, Natalie would take me and my brother all around San Francisco – we had afternoons at the Legion of Honor, sandy sojourns at Ocean Beach, and brunches at Perry’s on Union Street. There were visits to the San Francisco Zoo, or Fisherman’s Warf, or parties with friends in Cow Hollow where we'd steal sips of guests' gin and tonics, the fine whiff of Calvin Klein cologne floating in the air. We would stay in her fashionably decorated apartment, my brother and I often fighting over who would get to sleep on the Chesterfield sofa. And her apartment itself was a classic spot on Broadway at Gough in Pacific Heights – it had a checkerboard marble entry-way and all the lovely details you’d imagine in a San Francisco flat, including a peak-a-boo view of the Golden Gate Bridge.
Natalie taught me what it was like to live in San Francisco and how to embrace everything the City has to offer – this included weekend picnics at Stern Grove listening to the symphony, afternoons watching Shakespeare in Golden Gate Park, and my first taste of caviar and my first (surreptitious) sip of champagne. There was shopping at I. Magnum and Macy’s at Union Square, and Sunday matinees at the Clay Theater. She rarely cooked, but she showed me how to shop like a San Franciscan – visits to little neighborhood stores, like Real Foods on Polk in Russian Hill, or her corner bodega.  
She also introduced me to Mission burritos from El Farlito’s, deli sandwiches from Lucca’s eaten on the lawn by the Palace of Fine Arts, and weekend kite flying in Crissy Field. She was cosmopolitan, fashionable and, considering our family, a bit of a social climber who aspired to larger things. Despite my Scotch practicality and my Irish (on my mother’s side) ear for the blarney, she also taught me to aspire in some ways, too.
For instance, I don’t think I would’ve wanted to travel without my Aunt Nat's influence – she gave me the interest and eventually the bug, and at some point I became possibly more voracious than she was about visiting odd far away lands. She also gave me the bug for a few other things – she liked to read biographies and histories and seemed to fantasize that she was an aristocrat, and she gave me a love for a good story; she also had confidence, and acted like she was highly educated, despite her community college credentials, and my mother once told me that Nat said she planned to marry “the next John F. Kennedy.”
And maybe she could’ve. I always imagined her as a sort of Armistead Maupin character – she was once referenced in a Herb Caen column, and she seemed to know everyone wherever we went in San Francisco. She had many gay boyfriends that she brought home to our sometimes stodgy family for Christmas, Thanksgiving, and Easter; she talked about alternative medicine, organic foods, and spent her Sundays at Glide Memorial before I even understood what any of this meant.
One thing I did know – regardless of how much was real or fanticized - I wanted to be like my Aunt Natalie. So I studied English literature at Berkeley where I was close enough to my aunt to have a standing Sunday date with her in the City. She took me to lunch and a movie in Russian Hill, dinner in North Beach, or we had a coffee in a cafe in the Marina. We’d usually gossip about boys and, though she was over twenty years older than me, it always seemed like she was getting more action than me. She taught me how to parallel park my Volkswagen Karmann Ghia (without power steering!) on a hill, and though I turned out to be more Panhandle than Pacific Heights, she instilled in me an appreciation for layered sweaters, beaches where you never went in the water, and an eye for beautiful places and things.
She also instilled in me a fear of never marrying, getting sick, and growing old alone (though I've come to realize this fear may have been unfounded), because when she was only thirty-nine years old, she learned she had Multiple Sclorosis (MS). After a few more years of flying, she retired from the airlines and started working in sales at a boutique hotel in the City. She kept her illness under wraps for many years, slowly progressing through the hotel ranks. But eventually she didn't have the energy, and she decided to quit her job and move home to live with her widowed mother in Woodland. She thought if she went home, she could try to get better so she could return to San Francisco, and eventually to her old life that was so full of activity, beauty and purpose.
Unfortunately, her health didn’t improve. Her MS was progressive and her legs - initially numb - gradually grew weaker, her balance more precarious, and she had chronic pain that started in her back and eventually enveloped her chest. She studied-up, took alternative medicine, and met with her doctors regularly in an effort to improve her health – this effort included everything from a very strict diet, stem-cell treatment in Mexico, to bee stings. After a few years without much improvement, she moved to Napa where she thought the milder weather might improve her health - that, or at least make her a more popular visitor's destination for her jet-setting friends.
But in Napa she continued to slow down. Initially, she would take short trips to the store, and she’d spend the afternoon in a chair on her shaded patio resting a heated lavender scented pillow on her aching spots. During this period, she had one request for me: for each of my visits to her in Napa, which came at least once a month, she asked that I bring a burrito from San Francisco – they didn’t have the equivalent in Napa, she said. She wasn’t even eating wheat at this point, or dairy, or much else, and she was painfully thin and weighed less than 120 lbs at 5’9”, but I took to picking up a burrito from Gordo’s on Geary on my way toward the Golden Gate Bridge and up to the North Bay. She wanted it simple, and as healthy as possible – black beans and grilled chicken with guacamole on the side.
Initially during her time in Napa, she volunteered at the Napa Library, helping adults learn to read, and she met another volunteer there, John. He was a retired Navy Captain and a widower, and he became a companion of sorts. Yes, it’s classic – who else would end up with a boyfriend while chronically ill but my Aunt Natalie? But I imagine they each offered each other something special – John's wife had died from a chronic illness, so there was something comforting in their roles. Also, Natalie was a huge flirt.
At first, they had dinner a few times a week in Napa, and occasional dates to San Francisco to see the symphony. And then, as her health continued to decline, on Sundays John would bring over take-out – maybe a Chinese chicken salad from Trader Joe’s - and they would watch a movie together on her old T.V. More recently, John was there to drive Nat to doctor's appointments, and when she didn’t have the energy to watch a whole movie, he would come over on Sundays and sit and have popcorn with her.
My visits became more difficult for her, too. Where initially they took place once a month and included two to three hours of catching up, they eventually became shorter – she could only really stay up and be social for an hour at most and sometimes she would call in the morning to tell me she’d had a bad night, and could I come another time? When we did meet, she'd say over and over again, "I want my life back. I want my life back!" Her appetite continued to decline, too – she went from eating a whole Mission burrito, to half, to picking at the chips and guacamole.
Holidays were tough, too – she had nurses who came in daily to make her meals and help her take baths, and she couldn’t really handle a big group of visitors or any of the activity of a holiday. She insisted we not come by, so I took to visiting her the Saturday or Sunday after Thanksgiving or Christmas, and even then she noted that she wasn’t in the spirit for celebrating holidays. John had a daughter and son-in-law that he normally visited for holidays, but often her nurse Billy would stay with her and keep her company, though she was only up for an hour or so.
This year, my holiday visit took place around the New Year, and it was special since it included my cousin and her husband from Fort Bragg, and their baby Isabel. My Aunt Cindy drove in from Sacramento, and I came from my home in San Francisco. This was maybe one of the happiest visits we’d had in a long time, and Isabel was full of kisses for her great auntie and everyone else. Natalie stayed up and kept us company for almost three hours. After the visit, the rest of us left her to rest and we went nearby for deli sandwiches where we discussed Natalie’s health and future. How much longer could she suffer with the pain, I thought? I felt really helpless knowing that the only thing I could really do was visit her, be there, and show I loved her, but I knew I couldn’t take the pain away, or give her back her life.
Lately, I’ve been thinking of all the stories she’s told me while I was growing up – many of them about boyfriends and love and about the places she’d been or the places she’s wanted to go, and I wished I could write them all down so I could really remember everything about her. When I was a little girl, I would sit on her lap and hold her hands and marvel at her pretty fingers and her long nails. She called me, “Boo." "Chrissy Boo!" she'd say. And she was the one who told me stories about my father, who passed away in 1995, and their childhood - stories about our family, including great aunts who were beauty queens, nuns, and shut-ins; uncles who made and lost millions; and great grandparents who travelled from the Ukraine through Ellis Island to build a milk farm and a life in Rhode Island. I always wanted to gobble it all up – everything she’s always known, and all the experiences she’s had. I wanted to gobble her up. It’s as if I’ve known she was losing the energy to tell us all she knew, and I didn't want to lose her legacy.  
Not long ago, when my aunt was attempting a new treatment, she abruptly went off her morphine; she didn’t think her body was addicted to it because she wasn't addicted to it, but then her health made a rapid decline, and eventually it seemed that she'd completely lost hope. Of course, this was understandable, and inevitable – she had hope when I wouldn’t have had hope. I used to wish we could bottle it. Regardless of how she felt, or the reality of her situation, she kept trying to find a solution. It was like she was dog-paddling in place in the middle of a vast ocean, but she could magically glimpse the shore in the distance – something I couldn’t see.
But when the hope was gone, she started talking about dying. She was in excruciating pain, so this was understandable, and she asked if I could help her. Initially, I thought about how this would work, but then I knew I couldn’t help her - it wasn't for me to help - and she stopped talking to me about it. Instead, we had talks about finding joy in life, meditation, and a year ago I had one of those rare opportunities to tell her all that she meant to me.
I told her about the drives in her car, the special-ness of having an aunt I loved so dearly, and how she changed me and made me who I am – how she made me someone who continually aspires to be more like her in many ways. I told her that she gave me my love of foreign places, my desire to talk to strangers, and my eye for seeing all the beauty in the world around me. After I told her this, we shared a weepy hug. She whispered in my ear that I was a joy – I gave her joy. I told her that she gave me joy, too.  
On Sunday, January 20th, Natalie had a late afternoon visit with John and they sat and chatted like normal, snacking on popcorn. John said she seemed in good spirits and it appears that after that, she went to bed in the early evening, as usual. But this time she left out four sealed white envelopes on her very tidy coffee table – one to John; one to Les – her first love, and a dear old friend; one for Billy; and one for her sister, Cindy. She left two rings that she never removed – my great-grandfather’s wedding ring that he’d bequeathed her, and her triple-band Cartier ring – next to a note on the table near the sealed envelopes.
In the morning, Billy found the front door unlocked. She saw the note and the envelopes, all addressed in Nat’s beautiful floral handwriting. In the note, Natalie asked that Pa’s ring stay in the family, the Cartier ring go to her friend Glenda, and that John take his choice of any of the lovely crystal boxes she’d collected through the years that she kept carefully laid out on the glass coffee table. Billy said everything else was in its usual place, tidy and neat, and that Natalie was in bed, curled comfortably in the fetal position, completely peaceful and quiet, as if she’d simply fallen asleep.
*     *     *     *     *

Natalie Jean Loader

b. May 19, 1945; d. January 20, 2013

Friday, January 28, 2011

These Are a Few of My Favorite Things

1. Leave the country (time of stay open to debate)*
6.  Read a good book that makes me cry*
19. Swim in the ocean*
26. Get a slight sunburn on my shoulders, face, stomach and knees*

*This is Not a Resolution - 50 Adventures for 2011

I recently took a pre-new-job-vacation to Sayulita, Mexico with dear friend, Jennifer. If you haven't been (which it seems almost everyone I know actually has been), I highly recommend. It's a little surfy beach town a tad north of Puerto Vallarta. Pretty mellow overall, and I was there with Jennifer to do a little birthday celebratin' for her birthday week. So, five days, and we made friends, met a tiger, hung out in a trailer park, and - most importantly - we surfed. 

When we arrived at the airport, we were immediately whisked toward a desk where a man offered us a free ride to our hotel, a free ride back to the airport, and a free brunch. All we needed to do in exchange was stop in and listen to a scintillating seminar on his property's time-share program. Yes, it would only take 1-1/2 hours of our precious vacation time and we wouldn't need to actually attend until our last day in Mexico. After a few moments of cautious hesitation, we agreed, promising to be back early before our flight, and we then were rushed to the parking lot where we were immediately ensconced in a lovely black SUV suitable for a member of the Russian mafia - it had air conditioning, a cooler, and darkened windows. We definitely felt like we were on vacation, with the sound of Mexican pop radio and the low hum of the SUV's engine lulling us into afternoon naps. 

Exhausted, we arrived at night for our stay at Junto al Rio, a lovely little low-key bungalow that was only steps away from the beach and at the mouth of the Sayulita River, and though we stepped out long enough to have a dinner of fish tacos on the square, we reserved our energy and went to bed relatively early that first night.
We knew pretty immediately what our job would be in Sayulita: we were to eat fish tacos everyday, enjoy choco bananas (frozen bananas dipped in chocolate and decorated with everything from oatmeal to yummy candy sprinkles) and the colorful fruit bars that are ubiquitous in Mexico. We were also to sip excellent tequila in little sea-side bars, lounge in hammocks, eat coconuts, and run our toes through the sand. Little did we know that we would end up talking to people from all over world - two mountain-climber/surfers/restaurant owners from Chihuahua, a bartender from Spain, an Italian "botonist" from Mendocino, and an Argentine restauranteur. We would even become tight with the owner of "Fish Taco" joint (well, sort of - we did learn that his San Diego outfit serves what's been voted (by who knows who) the best fish taco in the US. Impressive, eh?)




After a lounge-y day, during our first real night in Sayulita, we hung out in a little beach-side bar and talked to those few Mexican guys from Chihuahua who were camping in the little camp ground nearby. These two were probably our two favorite people we met on the trip. I suspect this may have had something to do with our discussion of the circus that was performing in town. Jennifer and I could hear a bullhorn announcing the show in the early evening and we could see the tent across a pasture set in the middle of town. It was bizarre and a little creepy and the two guys from Chihuahua told us they planned to drink a ton of tequila that night and head over to the circus later and set the tigers free. They giggled when they said this, but it seemed nuts that there should be tigers in the middle of town. We decided we definitely needed to check out the circus at some point during our stay. Later that night, after dinner and a few margaritas, we took a sneak peak and found that the cost was only a few pesos and the crowds were predominately locals with children.


The following day, Jennifer thought we should leave behind our lounge chairs and maybe get in the water. Though the weather was mild and for my wimpy self I felt the water was sort of cold, and I was starting to wonder if this winter weather was swimming weather. On the other hand, Jennifer - the woman who swims in the water at Ocean Beach without a wet suit - had different ideas; when we arrived in Sayulita, she announced she was going to take a surfing lesson. She also asked if I wanted to go.

"Ah, no," I said. 

Later, she asked again, "Are you sure?" 

I said, "Oh, no - I think I'll read my book and rest up." Big smile. "The water seems pretty cold." 

And then, one more time she asked, "Okay, you're sure?" she said as she gathered her stuff to go get her board at one of the places advertising lessons along the beach. 

Again, I said, "No. I don't think so..." 

And then, short pause, and with hardly a beat, I said, "Okay. Let's do it." And before I knew what was up, I was standing in front of "Surf and Roll," talking to Alejandro about a surf lesson. (Yep, I'm easily persuaded - so easy, that you don't even have to actually persuade at all.)
I have to say, we were pretty good for novices. The water was somewhat chilly, but nothing like the water off of Ocean Beach and we powered through, balancing our long-boards on our heads and walking down the beach and letting the foamy surf lap against our feet. And then we dove fearlessly into the surf, only getting a bit of water up our noses in the course of our many paddles out beyond the break. Of course, "Yenny" (AKA Jennifer) wacked herself in the mouth and the neck with the surf board at one point and I kept losing my bathing suit bottoms - Yenny said I was "Daffy Ducking" it. But we made some friends along the way and were impressed with our two beefy Canadian co-horts who shared our lesson and how they attacked the waves and immediately were standing on their boards. Miraculously, during our surf lesson I didn't get eaten by a shark, and I didn't even drown. I think I'd be back for more - particularly if the water is warmer. 



One of my very favorite moments of our trip was sitting on the beach and watching the surfers at sunset, particularly after we'd just enjoyed our first venture into surfing ourselves. Though I've always loved watching people surf, there was a whole new meaning after knowing how much went into it - the struggle to get out beyond the break, the patience needed to wait for that perfect wave, and the triumph of keeping my swim suit together. I also loved hanging out with "Yenny" as the sun went down and thinking about all the fun birthdays past and those yet to come. I figure, the only way to improve on a sunset is to combine it with a tart margarita, a balmy beach, and the company of a dear friend. 



Most oddball moment of the trip was hanging out with Roberto aka "Robbie," our friend from Mendocino. Um, he had a very interesting background and once lived in the area, so he had many friends in Sayulita and knew pretty much everyone. Soon enough, we did, too. The night after our surfing lesson, we shared a few empanadas and a couple glasses of Malbec with Robbie at the sole Argentine establishment on the square, became quick-friends with the owner, then took a short road trip to nearby "San Poncho" (AKA San Francisco), a small surfing town a tad north of Sayulita. 



There was a big surf competition going on in San Poncho and when we arrived in town, via a somewhat circuitous route due to the damage the previous rainy season had wreaked against local bridges, we found San Poncho pretty sleepy - there were multitudes of tents set up on the beach and surfers sitting around huge campfires smoking pot. But we were looking for a supposed "rager"with DJs, live music, and dancing all night. Instead, it was quiet but for the murmur of sleepy surfer boys singing, "One Love" around beachy camp fires. 

It turns out the party was off due to the moisture from the water messing up the sound equipment. They'd actually moved the music and party to a central area of San Poncho. We walked by the venue and found a sad cluster of people dancing to bad Mexican Christian rock and learned there was a cover charge to get in.

So Robbie took us to visit a few friends who lived in a large immobile motor home nearby. There we met a couple - an Italian guy who loved Italian reggae and his beautiful 21 year-old Mexican girlfriend who had grown up for a good part of her life in Southern California and spoke English with a Valley Girl accent. We sat around with these folks for a while - too long actually - and eventually a sweet Canadian surfer guy showed up. It seems he also knew Robbie and the other folks from many years of visiting Sayulita and surfing. He was making his way down the coast to where his sailboat was docked somewhere near Porto Escondito. This whole scenario was a tad nutty - we drank some fancy tequila and listened to some hilarious reggae (German reggae?) while our hosts smoked and talked about the old days. 

Ultimately, though we were happy for the chance to visit another town, we really just wanted to get home. It took a little probing of Robbie, but eventually we headed back to Sayulita. Our soundtrack was Tom Petty singing "American Girl" as Robbie's little red car wound its way through the jungle and over the small hills next to the ocean. 

When we first arrived in Sayulita, I REALLY wanted to go on a little sailing trip, but the sole sail boat was out of commission on Sunday, so for our last day we had a lush lunch and spent the afternoon at a small hidden beach near the town's cemetary. It seemed a little strange to stumble past ornately decorated graves to land ourselves on a balmy beach, but this is what we did. We found a great spot on the beach with only the smallest smattering of people selling earrings and Mexican blankets. It was a little slice of heaven and there were definitely more locals on this beach. 

There we met a couple from Puerto Vallarta and their two children. I was finishing up my vacation reading, and I turned to find them sitting nearby, burying their giggling children up to their necks in the soft, cool sand. This little scenario was pretty darn endearing, and it reminded me of being a kid and how my parents once did the same thing for my brother and I on the sandy beaches along the Sacramento River. It's funny how it doesn't matter where you are, it's all the same - parents and children are similar the world over. The father talked to us a bit, initially afraid he was disturbing us, but he eventually told us about his favorite beaches in the area. One of his eyes seemed slightly droopy, like he might've had Bell's Palsy, and he was so sweet and friendly, talking slowly as he told us what he thought about Mexico and his life in Puerto Vallarta. We watched them for a bit before suddenly the entire family laughed and rushed off into the surf to rinse off all the sand. 
The book I was reading during the trip was Vendela Vida's, The Lovers. Vida is married to Dave Eggers, another favorite Bay Area author, and she lives in Marin and I've seen her read a few times at my favorite book stores. The Lovers was actually the second book of hers that I've read and so far I've found she tends to write about interesting locations and does painstaking research prior to writing. And her writing itself is so somber and spare - it feels like a nice, quiet place to be and so different from how I write and think. 

As I read, I assumed I would find conventional lovers within the story, but I was wrong - it was really a story about a middle-aged widow who was traveling to Turkey to visit the scene of her honeymoon. It was also about the story of the people who owned the house she rented and an odd friendship she developed with a young Turkish boy. Initially, I didn't think the novel had the capacity to move me, but it did - maybe more so after watching the family on the beach. I think what struck me was a moment in the book when someone asks the woman how she's able to get over death or the loss of someone without the shelter of religion or some real belief. It was at this moment that the woman realizes what's helped her - family, love, and maybe the sense of legacy, if I interpret it right - and she recognizes that she isn't really over the death though she will be.  

In the afternoon, the sky was overcast and we wandered through a different part of town and went to visit the tigers and monkeys in their cages sitting out in front of the circus. They were in such a sad, cramped space, we thought about the guys from Chihuahua and wished we, too, could set them free. 




And then we saw ponies, an ox, and llamas in the field with the circus set behind them, and this felt somewhat comforting and magical by contrast.
Our last night in Sayulita, we walked through the back streets of town and checked out the large houses there, visiting the house where Jennifer once stayed over five years ago. In some ways, this felt like we were putting something to rest - momentarily touching on a soft spot in time, and setting it free maybe.

Afterward, we went to Medusa's for fish tacos, but we each veered from the well-trodden path of tacos and Jennifer ate a smoked marlin burrito and I had camarones a la diabla. There was a sweet young hippy couple from Argentina who came and sang a few songs in the restaurant - the girl played the guitar and she had a very pretty, smiling face, and her boyfriend was cute and goofy and he played the trombone. They were traveling around the world and busking and though they said they were playing their own "original" music, they actually played a few reggae classics that I couldn't get out of my head. 
Later, we avoided Robbie and the beach bar (as well as the Argentinian bar) and instead sat at a bar on the square and drank wine and margaritas and watched the crowd wander by. At one point, there was a fierce dog fight with a yellow lab in the middle of it. The dog reminded me of my old dog, Maggie, and momentarily I was tempted to get into the middle of the fight. It turns out, a drunk street musician had started the fight by throwing his dog at the lab and pretty much all the nearby dogs shared in the fight against the poor old dog. Fortunately, a guy from the bar separated the dogs with a stick, but I'd never seen something like this before - so savage - and I was pretty upset from the whole thing. We decided this was enough for the night and we made our way back to our bungalow and though I fell asleep quickly, I kept dreaming about the lab's silky dark eyes.
In the morning, we woke up and sat in the sun for a bit. We didn't want to leave the beach. Moreso, we didn't want to go to the seminar and listen to a guy sell us time-shares before we took our long flight back to San Francisco. True, we felt guilty for taking a free ride, but this guilt took a back-seat to the sun shining on the beach and the chance to bask in our last breakfast at Choco Banana. 

It was quiet as we took our time over our oatmeal and smoothies, and we felt unsure if we should ever be back to Sayulita - it's hard to know what the future holds. And during our meal we felt well-satiated as we watched locals come and go, greeting each other with kisses on the cheek, as a busker played "My Favorite Things" from The Sound of Music on the violin. 

51. Surf

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Lemon Water


  1. Make a batch of limoncello

My mother had a great lemon harvest this year and she ended up gifting me with a bucket of over 45 Meyer lemons from a tree in her yard. I’ve been enjoying these sorts of lemons since living in Berkeley where I had both a Meyer lemon tree and a Eureka lemon tree. The Meyers were clearly more valuable—if you haven’t tried one, they’re said to be a bit of a cross between a lemon and an orange and maybe less tart and a tad sweeter than a regular lemon, though they have a thinner peel and aren’t so great for their zest. They’re pretty common around the Bay Area as a whole and are ripe typically starting in December or so, and then again in the summer months. If I were to actually buy a Meyer lemon at the grocery store, they’d put me back maybe $1 each, so there’s much to be said for having access to an entire bucket-full of them. 



I’ve let them sit around neglected for a week, but they still look and smell fresh. All I need to do is scrub them in warm water and get them ready to peel their rind. 



I have this funky glass jar I keep the mixture in—there’s plenty of room to add the simple syrup and enough space to stir the ingredients without making a mess. This batch, let’s hope, is going to be perrrrrrfect. I had enough lemons to triple the recipe, so I see lots of limoncello on the horizon; clearly this is what we’ll be drinking for the next year when anyone visits for dinner. 



I’m a “whole cow” sort of limoncello maker. This means that once I’m done with the rind, I try to do what I can with the rest of the lemon. In this case, I squeeze the lemons and store the lemon juice for future recipes (and special batches of lemonade). 


MEYER LIMONCELLO RECIPE 

(Again, I tripled this recipe since I have so many lemons available):

15 Meyer Lemons, peeled in thin slivers avoiding pith*
1 liter bottle of Everclear (190-proof) alcohol
4 cups granulated sugar
5 cups water (filtered tap water, distilled water, or just some good old Hetch Hetchy Reservoir water, which is what I find in my San Francisco faucet)

*Note: I’ve found plenty of suggestions that I should only use thick-skinned lemons since you’re supposed to avoid the white pith that can make the limoncello taste bitter, but since I have access to Meyer lemons and I’ve used them with success in the past, I have to work around this issue. It seems impossible to avoid the pith with these lemons, but it is possible to cut down on pith by sticking to the surface level of the lemons as much as possible. Either way, limoncello with Meyers tend to have a very mellow Meyer-y flavor, so don’t be dissuaded. 


Step One:
· Wash the lemons with a vegetable brush and hot water to remove any reside of pesticides or wax; pat the lemons dry.
· Carefully peel lemons in strips with vegetable peeler so there's minimal white pith on the peel. NOTE: As mentioned, try to stick to the outer part of the rind as much as possible. If you're using regular lemons, you might simply zest them to avoid the pith.


Step Two:
· In a large glass jar add Everclear.
· Add the lemon rind.
· Cover the jar and let sit at room temperature for at least (10) ten days and up to (40) days in a cool dark place.
· Stir ingredients every few days, making sure to keep all rind moist and below the surface of the Everclear.



     (The below is to come after the 40 or so days….)


     Step Three:
· In a large saucepan, combine the sugar and water; bring to a gentle boil and let boil, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat and let the syrup cool before adding it to the limoncello mixture.
· Add cooled sugar mixture to the limoncello mixture (from Step One).
· Cover jar and allow to rest for another 10 to 40 days.

    
Step Four:
· After the rest period, strain the limoncello; discarding the lemon peels/zest. Pour strained Limoncello in bottle/bottles (of your choice) and seal tightly.  

· Keep your bottle/bottles of limoncello in the freezer until ready to serve. Serve ice-cold in little shot glasses at the end of a meal.  


Other sorts of water...

While I brew this up, it’s cold outsidethe sun has actually been struggling to get through the clouds all weekend. I’ve had a weird one with lots of interesting conversations with friends and revelations, new starts and endings, and the weekend included a few late nights of looking at art and hanging out at favorite dive bars, and the requisite sleepy mornings of clearing through bric-a-brac in my house punctuated with a few hours in the kitchen listening to American Water on repeat while working on the limoncello. 

There are lemons all around me—the scent of them, the feel of them, the sight of them everywhere! And then there’s the sound of this music and I feel like I might as well be on a completely different planet than it seems I should be—one where it’s summertime and I’m listening to the new oldies. 

Strangely, once upon a time, I never would’ve thought to listen to this album; it would’ve felt disloyal. In the ninetiesand with sensitive egos and sometimes hard to swallow band interviews fresh in printDavid Berman was reporting that Pavement was a side project of the Silver Jews, and that the Silver Jews came before Pavement (instead of the other way around). At the time, I remember feeling a sad pang with even the mention of the Silver Jews. In my world, David Berman was riding coattails, but heexpertly and with wit, it seemed—turned that concept around and made everyone wonder. 

Another part of my anti-Silver Jews equation had to do with what I knew of Berman himself. There were complaints about him being hard to work with and somewhat cruel and menacing at times. And there was also one of my all-time most annoying conversations where I was talking to Berman backstage at a Pavement show in Cincinnati (or Louisville or maybe Nashville?) and Scott told him I too taught college English and was interested in a future as a writer. Of course, Scott was being polite, bringing this up as a way of opening up potential conversation between the two of us, and for a few moments, we politely discussed writing and teaching. And then Berman rubbed his chin and said, “You know, come to think of it, I don’t really read any books by women.” 

I was sort of surprised and didn't know how to respond immediately. And he looked at me intently, reading my expression, and maybe waiting for my reaction, before he appeared to think about it for a moment longer, maybe looking over his mental bookshelf and thumbing through the many worn paperbacks and first editions. And then he shook his head again, clearly at a loss, and smiled at me, saying, “No. I really can’t remember reading a book by a woman. Funny, huh?”

Yeah. Pretty funny. Actually, I was pretty furious at the time—it felt like a sick little jab. And I took this discussion completely at face value in the moment, though now I’d like to believe he might’ve been kidding with me, or at least trying to get a rise out of me. Either way, he did that thing that some people out there know how to dohe tapped into something I already felt sensitive about and he shoved his fist in there and made me feel it and hurt for it. I remember thinking here was this guy being hailed as a great writer, someone to be respected and admired, and he didn’t even deem my entire gender, let alone me, worthy of a read. It felt like there really was one mark against me before I had even begun to put pen to paper. 

Likewise, this made me not want to read or listen to anything Berman produced. Screw him. So, I avoided Actual Air, and I listened to the Silver Jews only grudgingly and never deliberately. In retrospect, it’s not like he would’ve cared or even known, but I decided that no one should give this guy their time, starting with me. He needed a time out. I'd heard the rumors—he was difficult and tempermental, and there was also hearsay about Berman not wanting to pay Steve for his contributions to the Jews, telling him sap stories about how he needed the money more, which was no doubt the truth, but also taking some credit that wasn’t necessarily his, and potentially manipulating the whole situation. Well, I wasn’t sure any of this was necessarily true, but I remember initial listens to American Water and thinking that many of the melodies sounded like Pavement outtakes—they could've been watered down versions of Pavement’s Watery Domestic—and it seemed Steve was more involved than Berman let on

But lately, and maybe particularly after seeing the Pavement shows, I’ve been reclaiming that time, and maybe even regaining an ear for the Silver Jews in a way that I never had before. I can now be a member of the audiencenone of it seems quite so personal. Ultimately, I don’t feel so bitter about the Silver Jews the way I once did—they sound sad and sweet and somewhat hopeful similar to the way Pavement had at one time. I realized, I can't be angry or resentful or even bitter about something so melancholy and slight in the larger picture and history of music. I genuinely like this record—I'm maybe even growing to love it. It’s easier to like the underdog—and Berman has always known how to sell that idea. But I can appreciate it and let the sad memories and backstory go out into the universe and feel completely free to enjoy the history it represents, and simply enjoy it for what it is. 

Anyway, this is what I hear, which seems rather fitting while puttering around in the kitchen with a bunch of lemons:

HONK IF YOU’RE LONELY TONIGHT

Radio's on, feeling all right
Cruising the strip on a Saturday night.
I smile and I wave and I hide all my pain
but the sign on my bumper gives me away:

Honk if you're lonely tonight
If you need a friend to get through the night
A toot on your horn, a flash of your brights
Honk if you're lonely tonight.

I know a honky-tonk where we can go
A booth in the back with the lights way down low.
Jukebox is playing a sad melody
for heart-broken lovers like you and me.

We'll laugh and we'll flirt and we'll dance every dance
and ‘fore the night's over we'll take a chance.
The morning will find us with a smile on our face
and we'll be together in a lover's embrace.

Honk if you're lonely tonight
If you need a friend to get through the night
A toot on your horn, a flash of your brights
Honk if you're lonely tonight.

I know it seems sad to be so damn blue
but there's always the chance that you'll meet someone new.
I know that somewhere waiting for me
is a sad lonely lover with a bumper that reads:

Honk if you're lonely tonight
If you need a friend to get through the night
A toot on your horn, a flash of your brights
Honk if you're lonely tonight.


If a certain country-western singer were smart (and not quite so stoned), they’d do a cover. Here's to the new oldies!: